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Geologically, Kauai (“Cow-ah-ee”) is the oldest of the Hawaiian
islands. That means it has had time to acquire plenty of lush “jungle”
greenery— and the nickname, “the Garden Island”. The forces of
erosion from rain and wind have given Kauai the only true river in
Hawaii, as well as spectacular fluted cliffs, canyons, and waterfalls.
The tourist brochures tout Waimea Canyon (“Why-may-ah,”
meaning reddish water) as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” In
this case, the canyon actually lives up to the hype.
850 meters deep and cut by a river 31 kilometers long, it’s much
smaller than the Grand Canyon
in Arizona. But the rich reds of the volcanic soil splashed with the
green tropical foliage makes it, in a way, more spectacular. In common
with its Arizona cousin, there are numerous lookouts along the road that
parallels the canyon.
On the west coast of Kauai are the Na Pali Cliffs (this is one of
those redundant usages, since na pali is Hawaiian for “the
cliffs”). The sheer scale of the cliffs has defied the best efforts of
highway engineers, so the only way to see the cliffs is by boat,
helicopter, or by a difficult hike. But you can easily drive to the Kalalau
Lookout (“ka-la-l’ow,” meaning the straying girls), which provides
a panoramic view of the coast (the light is best in the early afternoon).
You can also drive along the north shore to reach one end of the Na Pali
Cliffs. On the way is Kilauea Point (“Key-l’ow-ay-ah,”
meaning spewing and spreading lava), with its lighthouse, the
northernmost point in the main (inhabited) Hawaiian islands (the
numerous tiny Northwestern Hawaiian Islands are an uninhabited wildlife
preserve). Past Kilauea Point is a lookout with a great view of Hanalei
Valley (“Ha-na-lay,” meaning crescent bay) and its fields
of taro, the Polynesian staple crop.
You’ll eventually get to Kee Beach (“Kay-ay,” meaning
avoidance), where the Na Pali Cliffs begin. The beach is more
commonly (and accurately) called “the beach at the end of the road.”
There are a number of companies that provide tours of the Na Pali
coast by air and by sea, depending on your budget and your spirit
of adventure. The coastal cruises (by catamaran, kayak, or Zodiac
raft) provide a close-up view of the fluted cliffs, and even enter sea
caves. But the water can be rough, so do bring your favorite
seasickness remedy if you have any tendency toward mal de mer.
The sunny south shore of Kauai has fine coastal views and, usually,
nice weather. Poipu (“Poe-ee-poo,” meaning crashing waves),
site of many of Kauai’s hotels and some of its best beaches, is a good
place to watch the sun set after a day of touring.
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