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An advertising copywriter assigned to hype Banff and Jasper National
Parks in Alberta would not have a very challenging job. With the Rocky
Mountains, numerous lakes, waterfalls, and even a “drive-up” glacier,
the scenery supplies its own superlatives. Although they are separate
for historical and administrative reasons, the two parks are really one
continuous series of splendid views. The Trans-Canada highway becomes
the Icefields Parkway as you head north and west from Banff to Jasper.
Unless you’re visiting in August, when this road can resemble a Los
Angeles freeway at rush hour, driving can seem hazardous because it’s so
difficult to concentrate on driving when you’re constantly gawking at
the scenery.
The best way to visit the parks is to split your time between the towns of Banff
and Jasper. Both have plenty of accommodations and make great bases for day trips exploring
the Canadian Rockies. Banff, the southern park, is the more developed of the two. The town of
Banff (named for a county in Scotland) is a ski resort in winter and a tourist town
in summer. If you have good weather, one essential trip is a ride on the Sulphur Mountain
Gondola. At 2,281 meters you’ll get a panoramic view of Banff and all the surrounding
mountains.
Vermilion Lake is south of Banff. At dusk it’s a beautiful spot for quiet contemplation
(except for the buzz of mosquitoes), with great views of saw-toothed Mount Rundle.
Another saw-toothed feature near Banff is Castle Mountain.
Although Banff has many fine (and expensive) restaurants, a picnic can be a good
way to save money and calories while enjoying a natural setting.
Lake Louise is 58 kilometers northwest of Banff. It’s an easy
day trip. In the summer the lake is a crowded and rather tony resort. The Chateau
Lake Louise, originally one of the chateau-style luxury hotels built by the
Canadian Pacific Railway, is right on the lake (although there are more affordable
accommodations available in the surrounding town).
As with most glacial lakes, the water is too cold for swimming (7
degrees even in August). But the Chateau rents canoes. In the
off-season, when the crowds are gone, the lake presents a brooding scene
of ice, clouds, and solitude. The canoes are tied up on the pier,
awaiting warmer weather.
Moraine Lake is near Lake Louise, but it’s a world away. With no resort hotels, the
lake remains pristine. It’s particularly striking on a summer morning.
The Canadian $20 bill used to feature an engraving of this lake.
Peyto Lake is almost the stereotypical glacial lake. As a glacier creeps
across rock and soil, it slowly grinds it into a fine powder sometimes
called “rock flour.” When glacial ice melts these tiny particles remain
suspended in the water. Because the particles are the size of the
wavelength of red light, a glacial lake absorbs the red end of the
spectrum and reflects a distinctive color that varies between dark blue
and turquoise depending on the time of day.
Here is the glacial source of Peyto Lake, shown in the late afternoon. The melting
ice forms a kind of waterfall that fills the lake. When I took this
picture there was still ice on the lake (and snow on the ground).
If anything, Jasper National Park has even better scenery than Banff. It’s also a bit
less developed (and less crowded) than its better-known southern neighbor.
As you might suspect, the Icefields Parkway owes its name to the ice fields, a
series of glaciers. The best known and most accessible of these is the
Columbia Icefield, sometimes called a “drive-up glacier” because its “toe” is less
than a kilometer from the road.
You can park at any of several spots and take a short walk to see the glacier, which
thanks to its reflectivity remains solidly frozen even in the summer heat.
Near Jasper are the adjoining Patricia Lake (left) and Pyramid Lake (right). They’re a bit
out of the way of the tour buses, which makes them all the more appealing (especially
in the early morning).
The Icefields Parkway runs alongside the Athabasca River. Where
there are rivers and mountains there are waterfalls. One of the most
impressive is Athabasca Falls.
For more about my trips to Alberta and the lessons I learned there
about the caprices of nature, traveling alone, and photofinishing,
see the Lessons from Alberta
section of my Commentary pages.
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